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~Tubular Oil Lantern~

Frequently Asked Questions

On this page you will find answers to the most frequently asked lantern questions.  Many of the e-mails we receive pertain to specific lantern models, and when they were made, etc.   We do not appraise or provide values for lanterns, nor do we know of any legitimate company that would appraise anything sight unseen.

PLEASE NOTE:  

If you wish to use text from LanternNet.com in an auction or sales description,
please include a credit line that reads:
  

"Copyrighted Text by W.T. Kirkman Used With Permission, Courtesy of www.lanternnet.com " 

Do not copy and/or alter photos or graphics from LanternNet.com for use on other websites.

  • QUESTION 1: How old is my Dietz lantern, and what can you tell me about it?

    ANSWER LINKS:  To determine the month and year of manufacture on most Dietz lanterns made between 1915 and 1956, look at the "M" or "S" production date located under the patent dates, usually located on the upper part of the air tube to the right of the fuel cap, or on the center air tube on Hot Blast lanterns.  (Do not confuse the "M" or "S" production dates with a patent date when looking at a Dietz Lantern.) "M" denotes Dietz New York City "Main" Factory #1, while "S" denotes Dietz Syracuse Factory #2, which is followed by the month and year of production.  Stamping Patent and Production dates into Dietz lanterns was abandoned in 1956, coinciding with the establishment of the Hong Kong factory.  (i.e. "S-6-41" stands for Syracuse Factory #2, June of 1941, "M-1-25" stands for New York City Factory #1, January 1925.)  Note:  Lantern production ceased in the New York City "M" Factory #1 in 1931.

  • QUESTION 2: Where are Dietz lanterns now made?

    ANSWER: The lantern division of the R. E. Dietz Company moved to Hong Kong in 1956. In 1982 the factory was moved from Hong Kong into China. In 2005 the factory was again moved, and now operates in Jiangsu, China. The Dietz sales office continued to operate in Aberdeen, Hong Kong up to 2019.

  • QUESTION 3:

    ANSWER:  Standard Lamp Oil, Synthetic Kerosene, or Kerosene Substitute are recommended for use indoors.  Clear K-1 Kerosene with a flash point of 124 to 150 degrees is recommended for outside use. 

    The approved fuels for indoor or outdoor use in Tubular Lanterns and Flat Wick Oil Lamps are:   
    1.  Lamplight Farms® Clear Medallion Brand Lamp Oil, (#60020, #60003 aka #6300, #60005 aka #6400, and #6700 Only ) Flash Point: 145 Degrees Fahrenheit 
    2.  W.M. Barr & Co. Klean-Heat® Kerosene Substitute (#GKKH99991, 128oz, sold by Home Depot SKU #391-171) Flash Point: 145 Degrees Fahrenheit
    3.  Crown® Brand Clear Lamp Oil (#755946)  Flash Point: 141 Degrees Fahrenheit
    4.  Genuine Aladdin® Brand Lamp Oil (#17552, 32 oz., and #17554, 128 oz.) Flash Point: 141 Degrees Fahrenheit
    5.  MVP Group International Florasense® Brand Lamp Oil (#MVP73200, 64oz. and #MVP73201, 32 oz., Sold by Wal-Mart ) Flash Point: 142 Degrees Fahrenheit
    6.  Firefly Safe and Green Lamp Oil  (CAS #85566-26-3)  Flash Point: 183 Degrees Fahrenheit (This particular fuel is specially formulated to operate in wick lamps and lanterns at a higher flashpoint.)

    The approved fuels for outdoor use in Tubular Lanterns and Flat Wick Oil Lamps are: 
    1.  Non-Dyed (Clear) Kerosene with a Flash Point Between 124 and 150 Degrees Fahrenheit
    2.  Coleman® Brand Kerosene Fuel (#3000000270)  Flash Point: 130 Degrees Fahrenheit
    4.  Crown® 1-K Fuel Grade Kerosene (#KEM41,  #KEP01, #KEP25, #KEM05) Flash Point: 150 Degrees Fahrenheit
    5.  Crown® Citronella Torch and Lamp Fuel (#CTLP01, #CTLP02, #CTLP48) (OUTDOOR USE ONLY, cut 50:50 with kerosene to extend wick life.) Flash Point: 141 Degrees Fahrenheit  
    6.  Tiki® Brand Citronella Torch Fuel (OUTDOOR USE ONLY, cut 50:50 with kerosene to extend wick life.) Flash Point: 145 Degrees Fahrenheit  

    NOTICE:  Dyed kerosene or lamp oil will eventually clog the wick and inhibit proper operation.  It can also permanently stain the lamp or lantern.
    If you purchase kerosene from a gas station, make sure that it is from a "blocked" pump so that it is clear and not dyed red.
    (Un-blocked kerosene pumps by law must dispense dyed kerosene which will clog lantern wick, and cause it not to burn properly.)

    FUEL SOURCES:
    Standard clear lamp oil (Lamp Light Farms Medallion Oil,) is available nationwide at:  Target, K-Mart, Ace Hardware, True-Value Hardware, Sentry Hardware, and HWI Do-It Centers. 

    "Klean-Heat" Kerosene Substitute is available at or through most hardware stores and home centers including:  Home Depot, American Eagle, Coast to Coast, Ace Hardware, True-Value, and HWI Do-It Centers.  

    Genuine Aladdin Brand Lamp Oil is available from Aladdin Lamp Dealers nationwide.

    NOTE:  DO NOT USE PARAFFIN OIL IN TUBULAR LANTERNS WITH 5/8" or LARGER WICK.  (Use Paraffin only in lamps with 1/2" or smaller wick.)

    NOTE:  DIESEL, BIO-DIESEL AND OLIVE OIL ARE NOT SUITABLE SUBSTITUTES FOR ANY OF THE APPROVED FUELS AS THEY HAVE A FLASH POINT OVER 200 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT

PARAFFIN OIL NOTICE

NOTE:  Paraffin in the UK is kerosene. Paraffin Oil in the UNITED STATES is Liquid Candle Wax , and is mis-labeled for use in oil lamps and lanterns, when in fact it is only suited for Candle Oil Lamps that use small diameter (under 1/4”,) round wick. 99% or 100% Paraffin Oil is NOT designed or suitable for use in tubular lanterns or oil lamps that use flat wick, or Kosmos or Matador type oil lampsFurther, it burns only 1/2 as bright of any of the approved fuels listed above. Paraffin oil has a much higher viscosity and a flash point of 200 degrees or higher, as compared to the flash point of 150 degrees for kerosene. These differences inhibit the necessary capillary action of the wick, and will cause Lamps and Lanterns with 7/8" or larger wick to burn improperly and erratic. Once a wick is contaminated with paraffin oil, it must be replaced in order for the lantern to burner properly. If you must use paraffin oil, it may be mixed 1:10 to 2:10 (one to two parts paraffin,) to ten parts standard lamp oil or kerosene so that it will burn satisfactorily. Paraffin Oil is sold in the United States under the following trade names, which should be avoided except for use with lamps or lanterns with 1/4” Round of 1/2" flat or smaller wick :
Aura Oil
Crown Royal
Firelight Glass
Orvis Lamp Fuel
Northern  Lights
Northwest
Pure Lite
Recochem Ultra-Clear Lamp Oil
Soft Light
Tropical Lights
Ultra-Pure
Weems & Plath

WARNING!!

NEVER USE THE FOLLOWING IN ANY WICK LAMP OR LANTERN OF ANY TYPE:

1. Gasoline
2. Coleman Fuel
3.  White Gas
4.  Paint Thinner, (aka *Mineral Spirits)
5.  Wood Alcohol
6.  Naptha
7.  Turpentine
8.  Benzene
9.  Or any other
 Explosive Fuel with a flash point under 100° F.

USING ANY OF THE ABOVE FUELS IN A WICK LAMP OR LANTERN
CAN RESULT IN PROPERTY LOSS, SERIOUS INJURY, OR DEATH.

CAUTION:
Diesel and Aviation fuel should not be used in any wick lamp or lantern
as the fumes from fuel additives can be FATAL if inhaled.

SAFETY WARNING:

UPDATE:

WE STRONGLY RECOMMEND THAT YOU VERIFY THAT THE 
FLASH POINT
 OF ANY KEROSENE THAT YOU PLAN TO USE IN ANY 
OIL LAMP OR LANTERN OR KEROSENE HEATER IS 
BETWEEN 124 AND 150 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT. 

We have started receiving reports of lanterns developing "run-away" flames where the flame flares up and runs out of control.
When this happens, the only way to extinguish the flame is to smother the lantern.  
Place an inverted bucket over the lantern, or shovel dirt on it to extinguish the flame.

THE MINIMUM RECOMMENDED FLASH POINT FOR KEROSENE FOR USE IN
OIL LAMPS AND LANTERNS IS 124 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT.

I received an e-mail from a customer that thought it was OK to use paint thinner, despite our warning:

. . . . . I look up and the flame is so high that it burnt the rope, fell from the tree, shattered and the ground and lantern were on fire. I put the fire out and just assumed I did something wrong. The next night I set the second one on a flat tree stump. Every thing seems fine, not much light because the wick is so low, but a little. Next thing I know this one is on fire and the glass also breaks and I'm scrambling to throw dirt on it. The third night I try again, because it gets really dark and I was counting on those for light. This lantern does the same thing. It did not break the glassbecause I was nervous and kept watching it. . . .

Fil Graff, the Secretary of the International Guild of Lamp Researchers, wrote the following words on the topic:

On Dec. 22, 2000 @ 18:57, Fil Graff (fgraff@comcast.net) wrote:
. . . . For heavens sake, if you are playing with fuels, stay in the same petrochemical CLASS as the originally recommended fuel! NO MINERAL SPIRITS in a kerosene lamp! That is NO, none, not ANY! The "burns hotter" may be a problem in soldered burners, but the real problem is volatility and flash point. You do NOT want a possible font ignition from heated fumes!  If you cannot get road-taxed kerosene (it isn't red!)or Sunoco's "1-K", then try the Clearlite. It too burns hotter than kerosene, but at least is in the same volatility range, and therefore reasonably safe. I use it in Aladdins and other flat wicks, replacing the Champagne-priced odorless Ultra fuel I used for years, but have abandoned because of outrageous prices.

Tony Batts, General Manager of the Aladdin Mantle Lamp Company, recently e-mailed me:

"Woody, you are most correct, we would never recommend the use of mineral spirits or paint thinner in Aladdin lamps, lanterns, or any flat wick lamps. Believe it or not we still occasionally get calls from folks who have heard the its okay to use mineral spirits in their lamps.

Thanks for helping clear up this myth!

With kind regards,

Tony"

  • QUESTION 4: What is the difference between Hot Blast and Cold Blast Tubular lanterns?

    ANSWER:  Tubular Lanterns are roughly classified under the captions "Hot Blast" and "Cold Blast." Dietz (Rhymes with beets)  made the first "Hot Blast" Lanterns in 1868, and the first "Cold Blast" Lanterns in 1880.  The terms "Hot Blast" and "Cold Blast" are used solely in conjunction with tubular Lanterns and with regard to the method of supplying air to the flame.  All other lanterns made are classified as "Dead Flame," which are nothing more than an enclosure to protect  the flame, as no air circulation is provided.  Dead Flame examples include the Adlake #300 Kero or Dietz #041  Railroad Lanterns.   All tubular Hot Blast and Cold Blast lanterns will self extinguish if tipped over.  This safety feature is not found in any other other type of oil burning lamp or lantern!

    Hot Blast Lanterns are so constructed that a supply of fresh air enters the globe at the base through the openings in the perforated globe plate. This fresh air, in ascending through the globe, becomes heated by the flame and mingles with the hot products of combustion. A portion of this mixture of hot air and spent gases passes into the bell or canopy over the globe and through the sides tubes via downdraft to the air chamber beneath the burner, there directly supplying the flame. This design produces a steady yellow flame.  Inherent in the design of the Hot Blast Lantern, the burning time is approximately 10% greater than a Cold Blast Lantern of the same wick size.  Also, due to the re-circulating of the products of combustion, the Hot Blast Design is especially well suited for use indoors.

    Cold Blast Lanterns are so constructed that the supply of air taken through the side tubes does not mingle with the products of combustion and the flame is supplied with fresh air both through the globe plate and the side tubes. The spent products of combustion escape to the outer air through a central metal chimney in the Lantern head. From an air chamber surrounding the metal chimney, which is provided with injectors for taking in fresh air, fresh air is taken into the side tubes, down which it flows to the lower air chamber and thus to the burner.  The "Cold Blast" Lantern design produces a perfectly white flame and approximately twice the volume of light of a "Hot Blast" Lantern with the same size wick.  This fact has rendered the "Cold Blast" Lantern a favorite with users.  With the advent of modern fuels, Cold Blast lanterns can be used inside or out. 

  • QUESTION 5: How do I change the wick in my lantern?

    ANSWER:  First you must remove the globe and then the burner. Discard the old wick after removing it from the burner.  Trim the new piece of wick straight across, then apply 1/4 " of a 3" strip of masking tape to one end of the wick, and fold the tape back onto itself and wick, making a 1 1/4" long leader.  Trim the masking tape to the width of the wick, and insert it into the underside of the burner using it to guide the wick.  Once the wick is through the burner remove the tape and retrim the wick straight across if necessary.  This method can also be used for round wick using a narrow strip of masking tape as a leader.

  • QUESTION 6: How safe are tubular lanterns? Can I use them indoors?

    ANSWER:  Contrary to Hollywood propaganda, tubular lanterns are infinitely safer than any other non-electric artificial light source.  If a tubular lantern is tipped over, the balanced draft cuts off the air supply to the burner and extinguishes the flame within seconds.  With the advent of modern lamp oil and synthetic kerosene, both Hot Blast and Cold Blast lanterns are well suited for indoor use in ventilated areas.  Since the design of a Hot Blast lantern re-circulates spent air to the burner for more complete combustion, it has a slight edge over the Cold Blast Design, and a 10% greater efficiency rating.  For light output however, cold blast lanterns remain the best choice. 

  • QUESTION 7: How do I clean my rusty tubular lantern?

    ANSWER:  The main objective is to remove all of the rust and paint and stabilize the metal to prevent further deterioration.  You should have some basic knowledge of working with chemicals before attempting the following procedures.   These are only basic guidelines, but they will give you a starting point to develop your own system.

WARNING: Sand blasting or glass bead blasting will not only remove the patina but is the fastest way to destroy the value of a lantern, and possibly blast holes through the metal.

(NOTE:  Take all safety precautions, use gloves, safety glasses, etc.)

PH-Down (Sodium Bisulfate) Method  (PREFERRED)
This method will remove rust, crud, (and eventually paint) without removing the patina.
1.  Remove the fuel cap, globe, and burner from the lantern.
2.  Mix 1 cup of PH-Down in Warm Water in a sealable 5 to 10 gallon plastic container.
3.  Submerge the lantern and burner *entirely in the Solution for **1 day.
4.  Remove the lantern, and lightly scour with a Brillo pad, (not SOS,)
5.  Repeat steps 3 and 4 until all the rust or tarnish has been removed.
6.  Once you are finished, give the lantern one final rinse in the solution, then dry with paper towels immediately.  Use a blow dryer on low to dry the inside of the tank.
7.  After the lantern has been cleaned,  I recommend polishing it first with Blue Magic (tm) Metal Polish to bring out the luster. You can also use #0000 steel wool to buff out the lantern.
8.  To finish the lantern ***paint or lacquer it with your choice of finish.  If using paint, taping off the center air tube on hot blast lanterns, or the chimney on cold blast lanterns, makes for a professional, like factory, looking job.  If the filler spout is brass, you might also tape it off as well.  This also goes for brass wire guides and lift brackets as well.  The burner cone and burner should be left unfinished.  An alternative to painting tin plated lanterns is to wipe them down with a small amount of boiled linseed oil mixed 50:50 with kerosene.

Molasses Method  (PREFERRED)
This method will remove rust, crud, (and eventually paint) without removing the patina.
1.  Remove the fuel cap, globe, and burner from the lantern.
2.  Mix 12 oz. of Grandma's Molasses in Warm Water in a sealable 5 to 10 gallon plastic container.
3.  Submerge the lantern and burner *entirely in the Solution for **1 day.
4.  Remove the lantern, and lightly scour with a Brillo pad, (not SOS,)
5.  Repeat steps 3 and 4 until all the rust or tarnish has been removed.
6.  Once you are finished, give the lantern one final rinse in the solution, then dry with paper towels immediately.  Use a blow dryer on low to dry the inside of the tank.
7.  After the lantern has been cleaned,  I recommend polishing it first with Blue Magic (tm) Metal Polish to bring out the luster. You can also use #0000 steel wool to buff out the lantern.
8.  To finish the lantern ***paint or lacquer it with your choice of finish.  If using paint, taping off the center air tube on hot blast lanterns, or the chimney on cold blast lanterns, makes for a professional, like factory, looking job.  If the filler spout is brass, you might also tape it off as well.  This also goes for brass wire guides and lift brackets as well.  The burner cone and burner should be left unfinished.  An alternative to painting tin plated lanterns is to wipe them down with a small amount of boiled linseed oil mixed 50:50 with kerosene.

Soda Ash and Battery Charger Method  (PREFERRED)
(NOTE:  THIS METHOD PRODUCES HYDROGEN.
CONDUCT ONLY IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA AND AWAY FROM SPARK OR FLAME)

This method will remove rust, crud, and paint without removing the patina.
1.  Remove the fuel cap, globe, and burner from the lantern.
2.  Mix 1/4 cup of Soda Ash (Sodium Carbonate, NOT Sodium Bi-Carbonate) in 5 gallons of Warm Water in a plastic container.
3.  Connect the positive (red,) lead clamp of a 12 volt battery charger to an Anode, (a piece of rebar or plain iron,) and submerge the Anode (not the clamp,) in the soda ash water solution along the side of the plastic container.
4.  Connect the negative (black,) lead of the 12 volt battery charger to the lantern. (A leader wire can be used to attach to the lantern.)
5.  Submerge the lantern *entirely in the Solution for **1 day, making sure it does not touch the Anode and short the circuit.
6.  Turn on the battery charger and set to 5 to 10 amps charge for 24 hours
7.  Remove the lantern after 24 hours, and lightly scour with a Brillo pad, (not SOS.)
5.  Repeat steps 4 through 7 until the lantern is cleaned and suitable for finishing.
6.  Once you are finished, give the lantern one final rinse in the solution, then dry with paper towels immediately.  Use a blow dryer on low to dry the inside of the tank.
7.  After the lantern has been cleaned,  I recommend polishing it first with Blue Magic (tm) Metal Polish to bring out the luster.  You can also use #0000 steel wool to buff out the lantern.
8.  To finish the lantern ***paint or lacquer it with your choice of finish.  If using paint, taping off the center air tube on hot blast lanterns, or the chimney on cold blast lanterns, makes for a professional, like factory, looking job.  If the filler spout is brass, you might also tape it off as well.  This also goes for brass wire guides and lift brackets as well.  The burner cone and burner should be left unfinished.  An alternative to painting tin plated lanterns is to wipe them down with a small amount of boiled linseed oil.

Lye and Vinegar Method (LEAST PREFERRED)
(NOTE:  Take all safety precautions, use gloves, safety glasses, etc.)
This method will remove paint and rust without removing the patina.
1.  Remove the fuel cap, globe, burner, (and aluminum reflector if any,) from the lantern.
2.  Mix 1LB of Red Devil Lye, (from your grocery store) in Warm Water in a sealable 5 to 10 gallon plastic container.
3.  Submerge the lantern and burner *entirely in the Lye Solution for **1 day.
4.  Remove the lantern, and rinse with water, then quickly dry with paper towels.
5.  Coat with WD40 and use #00 steel wool to remove the majority of the remaining paint.
6.  Submerge the lantern and burner *entirely in a 50/50 solution of white vinegar and water for **1 day.
7.  Remove the lantern and parts and use #000 steel wool to clean off the rust and any remaining paint.  Use the vinegar to occasionally rinse the lantern while you are working on it.
8.  Once you are finished, give the lantern one final rinse with vinegar, then dry with paper towels immediately.  Use a blow dryer on low to dry the inside of the tank.
9.  After the lantern has been cleaned,  I recommend polishing it first with Blue Magic (tm) Metal Polish to bring out the lustre.
10.  To finish the lantern, ***paint or lacquer it with your choice of finish.  If using paint, taping off the center air tube on hot blast lanterns, or the chimney on cold blast lanterns, makes for a professional, like factory, looking job.  If the filler spout is brass, you might also tape it off as well.  This also goes for brass wire guides and lift brackets as well.  The burner cone and burner should be left unfinished.  An alternative to painting tin plated lanterns is to wipe them down with a small amount of boiled linseed oil mixed 50:50 with kerosene.

*   Make sure that the lantern is submerged entirely or surface pitting will occur
** Pitting will occur at some point after 1 day.  Monitor closely if you leave the lantern in longer than 1 day.
***Regular spray paint works fine, (high heat paint isn't necessary)
Never place aluminum in Lye solution, it will dissolve it.

These processes may weaken the soldered joints, making re-soldering necessary.  I recommend using Harris brand Stay-Clean liquid flux, and Radio Shack .064 60/40 Rosin Core Solder with a micro butane torch.  (Regular plumbers propane torches yield no control over where the heat is applied, and as such are only good for de-soldering lanterns, not making repairs.)

If cleaning the lantern exposes weak spots in the tank, creating pinholes, use the tank sealing method below.  Soldering pinholes is not the best solution, as more holes are bound to develop.

  • QUESTION 8: How do I stop a tubular lantern from leaking oil from the air tube?

    ANSWER:  In use, lantern wick conducts heat into the oil, this in turn creates expansion, and will cause oil to overflow into the air chamber under the burner if the lantern has been overfilled.  Once this happens, the oil will leak out of the joints where the air tubes go into the air chamber above the tank.   To prevent this, only fill the lantern to just under the fuel spout threads.   Use a small white plastic kitchen funnel to more easily see the fuel level when filling.  As a precaution, place the lantern in a shallow pan when re-fueling.   If overfilling occurs, empty some of the fuel.

  • QUESTION 9: How do I stop a tubular lantern from leaking from the tank?

    (NOTE:  Take all safety precautions, use gloves, safety glasses, etc.)

    ANSWER:  Remove the burner and fuel cap, and empty the oil completely.  If the inside of the tank is rusted and full of crud, drop a 1' piece of "Sash" chain into the tank and pour in one cup of white vinegar.  Swish the vinegar and chain around to knock down the heaviest rust or crud.  Drain the tank, and allow to dry in the sun, or use a blow dryer on low to completely evaporate all of the vinegar.   Remove the chain and make sure that there is nothing left in the tank like a piece of wick.  If there are visible holes in the tank, use masking tape to cover them.   Put on a pair of disposable gloves, then use a funnel to carefully pour into the tank about 2 teaspoons of  U.S. Standard "POR-15" Gas Tank Sealer to coat the entire inside.  Rotate the lantern to thoroughly coat both the bottom and sides of the inside of the tank.  If you get anysealer on the fuel spout or burner cup be sure to clean it off.  After the sealer cures in a few days, another coat of sealer can be added if the condition of the tank warrants it.  Let the lantern cure for one week, remove the masking tape and put the lantern back into service.  This method of re-sealing will usually last the life of the lantern.

    NOTE:  If the lantern leaks only from the crimp at the bottom edge, exterior grade marine spar varnish can be used to seal a weeping tank.  Use 1 to 2 teaspoons and allow to dry for one week before refilling with oil. 

  • QUESTION 10: What does "LOC-NOB" and "H" on my globe mean?

    ANSWER:   LOC-NOB refers to the pair of ears on a Dietz lantern globe used to keep the globe from falling out when tilting the globe plate for lighting or trimming the wick.  LOC-NOB globes were first offered in the 1917  Dietz catalog, (There are three patent dates associated with the LOC-NOB design, 3/10/14, 2/18/18 and 12/4/23,) and eventually became the standard for most all Dietz lantern models.  The first "LOC-NOB" style globes were made in 1915 and marked "NOBLOC" in the D-Lite/Wizard size only.  It is unknown if this was a mistake made by the globe manufacturer and was quickly corrected, or if the original name was to be "NOBLOC" and was changed to LOC-NOB for some reason. (NOBLOC could be mispronounced as ("No Bloc.") There were not many "NOBLOC" globes made, and that the only known examples are clear.  The first LOC-NOB Fitzall globes were made after 1918.  (The introduction of the LOC-NOB style globe coincides with the transition period after John E. Dietz assumed the reins of the company after his elder brother Fred passed away April 3, 1915.)  
    The alpha-numeric code (such as "H8") found on most Dietz lantern globes made before 1956 designates the manufacturer and mold number.  Here are the codes:
      
    "A" = Anchor (Pre-1937)
    "C" = Corning
    "CNX" Corning No-Nex (Fore-Runner to Pyrex)
    "CR" = Crescent
    "G" = Gleason
    "H" = Hocking (After 1937 Anchor Hocking)
    "J" = Jeanette
    "L"=Libby
    "McK" = McKee
    "R" = Rodefer

  • QUESTION 11: What are the different colored globes or bullseyes used for?

    ANSWER:   Here is a chart of applications for the various globe/bullseye colors:

    COLORED GLOBE APPLICATIONS

    Globe
    Color
    Fire
    Department
    Marine/
    Naval
    Railroad/
    Highway
    Clear/
    White
    General
    Illumination

    Anchor, Mast & Running Lamps

    Hand SignalsRED OVER BLUE
    RedChief Engineer,
    or Danger/ Do Not Cross Hoses
    Port LampStop/DangerRule No. 67
    BlueAssistant Chief Engineer,
    or Volunteer Company
    Captain on BoardRule No. 26:
    Do Not Move/
    Men at Work
    Stop/Telegrams Awaiting Train
    GreenForemanStarboard LampProceed 
    Amber/
    Yellow
    Assistant Foreman,
    or Chief Hoseman
    Running/Side LampsProceed at Reduced Speed,
    Prepare to Stop
  • QUESTION 12: Do you have a replacement globe for my lantern?

    ANSWER:   Visit our Replacement Globe Index page for assistance.

  • QUESTION 13: What is the difference between solid color, annealed, and flashed color globes?

    ANSWER:  We offer three different types of colored globes:  Solid Color; Annealed Color, and Flashed Color.  Each color type has it's advantages and disadvantages.  Here are the differences:  Solid Color Globes are made of colored glass.  The advantages of solid color glass are that the color is permanent, and cannot be removed.  The disadvantage is that dark solid colors limit the transmission distance and light output.  We offer some, but not all, of the railroad lantern size globes in solid color.  Flashed Globes are made of clear glass with colored lacquer applied in a cold process.  The advantages of flashed color are good light transmission, excellent depth of color, UV stable, and are are economically priced.  The disadvantages are that over time, through use the color will "cook" and darken towards the top of the globe.  Also, it is possible to remove the color, so no harsh cleaners or solvents should be used.  We offer some globes in flashed color.  Annealed Globes are made of clear glass with baked on color.  The advantages of annealed color are that is it more durable than flashed globes, has good light transmission, and are are economically priced.  The disadvantage are that annealed color is not as UV stable as flashed color, and will appear more "washed out" than flashed globes over time.  We offer our Vesta and Pullman lantern sized globes in annealed color.

  • QUESTION 14: Does elevation have any effect on tubular lanterns?

    ANSWER:   Yes.  The tall profile of the W.T. Kirkman Champion or the Dietz Blizzard lanterns provides additional draft that helps compensate for the lack of oxygen at higher elevations.  These lantern models will burn brighter than the "short globe" lanterns such as the D-Lite or Air Pilot, especially at elevations above 4000'.

  • QUESTION 15: The air tubes on my lantern seem to be blocked, what is the best way clean them out?

    ANSWER:   If your lantern burns with a sooty, orange flame, chances are the air tubes are blocked.  To clean blocked air tubes, first empty the fuel, remove the burner and globe, and soak the entire lantern in warm water, completely submerged.  After an hour or so, remove the lantern from the water and dry it.  Rinse the tank with a small amount of kerosene to remove any remaining water.  Use an air compressor and nozzle to blow air through the air tubes from the access provided by removing the burner.  Sometimes it is necessary to swab the inside of the air tubes.  This can be done by using ball chain, (like that used on light fixtures and ceiling fans,) with a small piece of cheese cloth .  Rattle the ball chain through the air tube, then tie the piece of cheese cloth, or some other similar material, to the chain and work it back and forth inside the length of the air tube.

    Keeping the air tubes clean from insects has always been a problem. There are a couple of things you can do to help prevent the problem:  Gently pry the crown support tabs up and remove the crown.  Cut and install a "disc" made of 1/8" hardware cloth, (available at your local mom and pop hardware store.)  A piece of light gauge steel wire can be used to fasten the disc to each of the four support tabs, then replace the crown.  You may also need to install a "washer" of hardware cloth under the "bell" and around the (lower) chimney to prevent insect access to the air tube inlets within the bell.

  • QUESTION 16: What were the original colors used on lanterns made by Dietz?

    ANSWER:  Dietz only started regularly painting their hand lanterns in 1943, when World War II forced the use of terne plate to replace tin plate. (Street Lamps, and lanterns with a dedicated purpose, such as wagon lamps, fire department lanterns, carriage lamps, etc., were painted before 1943.) Terne plate is not attractive, and not as rust resistant as tin plate, so the Dietz lanterns made from 1943 to 1949 were painted machine gray, which was replaced by metallic blue as the "standard" color. We have not found any documentation regarding original paint colors used by Dietz, however, I have talked to former longtime Dietz employees about the paint colors. It seems that no care was given to maintaining the same formula from batch to batch, which explains why there are so many different shades of Dietz "blue" on lanterns made from 1949 into the 1960's. The shades of red that Dietz used also varies, but not as much. Below I have noted the closest "off the shelf" paint matches:

    Rust-Oleum #7587838 Dark Machine Gray: 
    Most Dietz lanterns made from late 1943 into 1948 

    Dupli-Color #T131 Mariner Blue: 
    Current Dietz Metallic Blue, (Used since the 1960's) 
    NO LONGER AVAILABLE

    Value-Test Americana Red: 
    Current Dietz Red (Used since the 1950's) 

    Rust-Oleum #7765 Regal Red: 
    Vintage Dietz Red (Pre-1950)

    Krylon SuperMaxx #K08979000 Satin Hunter Green: 
    Dietz Pioneer, Post 1914 Imperial Square Lamps, etc. 

    Hammerite #41125 Hammered Dark Blue: 
    Japan Blue Finish used up to 1914 (Apply Very Lightly) 

    Hammerite #42240 Smooth Gloss Black: 
    Dietz Union and Motor Lamps from 1888 to 1950 

    Hammerite #41165 Hammered Deep Green: 
    C.T. Ham Metallic Green used on street lamps.
    used on Street Lamps 

    Rust-Oleum #7443830 Caterpillar Yellow:
    Dietz Night Watch  

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